The Chinese National Museum

As I briefly mentioned in my last post about Labor Day here in China, I had last Friday off in honor of the holiday. Since traveling in China during national holidays seems to more of a lesson futility due to the large crowds of tourists everywhere, I decided to stay in Beijing and visit some places I wanted to see before I leave. Included on that list, was the newly-reopened Chinese National Museum (中国国家博物馆).

After undergoing over three years of renovations, the National Museum recently re-opened after years of arguing and revisions. Historically, the current site of the National Museum was home to two separate museums, the Museum of Chinese History and the Museum of the Chinese Revolution; they were combined in 2003 to make up the Chinese National Museum. In an effort to boost China's (specifically, Beijing's) international standing, the Chinese government decided it was time to renovate and bring the museum up to par (or at least, what they felt like was up to par).

The original plan was to have the museum completely redone, renovated and opened for the 2008 Beijing Olympics, however due to years of arguing and disagreement over the museum's content and endless revisions on the interior design, was not finished in time. Nor was it finished in time for it's second hoped-for end date, which was supposed to coincide the 60th Anniversary of Communist rule on October 1, 2009. Finally, the National Museum reopened just this past March after years and years of delay.

Since 2008, China's museums have gradually begun waiving their entrance fee, in hopes of attracting more visitors. While I appreciate free museum admission as much as anyone, in the case of the National Museum, this seems to have backfired.

On my way to the 798 Space: a mini-adventure

On Tuesday, I set out to check out Beijing's 798 Space, an art district in the outskirts of Beijing. But before I tell you all about 798, I have to tell you about my journey over to 798. Because, as the saying goes, the journey is half the battle.

As I mentioned previously, 798 is located in the outskirts of Beijing, just north of the Fourth Ring Road. Since there isn't a direct way to get out to 798 solely using the subway, I looked on Google Maps for a good bus route(s) to take out there from BNU. Dutifully, Google Maps quickly spit out directions that seemed to coincide with the directions on the 798 website and I, of course, not knowing any better followed them.

But, as I'm sure you've guessed by now, those directions were not correct. According to the directions and map, the stop I was instructed to get off at would place me directly at the entrance to 798. Wrong. Very wrong. You know where I ended up instead? On a paved road that had  a dirt sidewalk on one side and a walled field around it on the other; in other words..it almost looked like the countryside. Definitely not where I wanted to be*.

After a few minutes of deliberation with myself and tentative walking around to make sure I really was in the wrong area, I decided to go ask the receptionist at a business hotel that luckily for me was located at the bust stop I had gotten off at. I have no idea what a business hotel (let alone a nice business hotel) was doing there all the way outside of the city, but nevertheless the receptionist was very kind when I asked her for directions (in Mandarin!).

As it turns out, I had completely overshot the 798 Space. In fact, I was so far that I couldn't even walk to it. I had to take a different bus back the way I came for roughly 10-15 minutes. (Needless to say, there isn't a dirt sidewalk over by 798; it's paved.)

All I have to say is, thanks, Google Maps; you were always so reliable before, but this time, you led me way astray. I don't appreciate that.

Regardless, I did eventually get to 798 after that little detour and it was definitely worth it. Using the abandon East German electronic factories from the 1950's, Bejing's contemporary art community has re-claimed the factories and turned them into various art galleries, cafes and stores. Since the factory workshops are sufficiently large, they are perfect for displaying art and large scale multimedia installations.

In some ways, 798 greatly reminded me of Brooklyn and Oakland/Emeryville, where many old warehouses have been converted into artist work-live lofts, among other uses. The space is also seemed very contained and separate from the bustling city that surrounded it; much like how Brooklyn always seems calmer than Manhattan.

Even the most of the other visitors of 798 seemed like they belonged in Brooklyn or Oakland. They all were young, like me, hip and interested in contemporary art and culture. It's the type of place I know a lot of my friends from home & New York would love.

Overall, it was a great outing for that day and I'll definitely be returning to 798 again (but not that dirt sidewalk place). And I have to say, I'm a proud of myself for figuring out how to go to my original destination, despite having completely misleading directions.

Here are some photos from 798. I should've taken one of the bus stop I got off when I was lost, but I didn't think of it at the time. Sorry!

I'm not convinced the Italian(?) here actually means what it says in English & Chinese, but I like the sentiment. 

 I'm not exactly sure why the Chinese military acts as security here. Maybe 798 lies right outside of Beijing Security's jurisdiction. Either way, this guy doesn't seem to be doing much. 

For more info about the 798 Space: http://www.798space.com/index_en.asp

*Note: For those of you concerned with my safety, rest assured that this detour occurred around noon on a sunny day and despite the country-esque surroundings, there were other people and cars around. I was in no danger whatsoever.