Might as well get comfortable

Recently, there's been a lot of talk about the state of Beijing traffic in the news. According to an oft-quoted study by IBM on traffic in twenty of the world's cities, Beijing and Mexico City tied for last place on their consumer pain index. That is, out of a 100 (a 100 being the worse), Beijing and Mexico City both came in at 99 for the most onerous traffic, based on a variety of factors including gas prices, length of commute and the effects of traffic on day to day decisions.

For those of you unfamiliar with the state of Beijing traffic, China Daily has put together a nice summary of the problems facing Beijing transportation and possible solutions here. (There are pictures too!)

This year, the Beijing city government enacted several ordinances in hopes of curbing Beijing traffic. The most discussed traffic measure aims to curb car sales, which have dramatically increased the last few years. Starting on January 1st of this year, all prospective car buyers must first apply online (or in-person) for a license plate, which are given out on a lottery-based system every month.

Other new traffic ordinances aimed at curbing Beijing's snarling traffic include raising parking rates at all garages, banning non-Beijing registered cars inside the Fifth Ring Road during rush hour and limiting who can drive based on even/odd license plate numbers.

To anyone who lives and Beijing, the news that Beijing traffic is one of the worst in the world hardly comes as a shock. There have been times where I'm pretty sure I've sat (or stood) on a bus for an half-hour(or more) and not moved more than a few yards. Walking is often times faster, if your destination is already within a relatively walkable distance. (Remember, Beijing is a very large, very spread out city.)

As for the Beijing subway, it's great...in theory. However, considering the sheer size of Beijing, the subway stops are relatively few and far between. Not to mention, that with only a few transfer points for each line, certain stations often resemble giant cattle herding centers with hordes of people trying to switch from one line to another, particularly during rush hours and Friday evening. It also takes a while to get from one place to another. For instance, it takes me roughly an hour (including walking time) by subway for me travel from Wangfujing to BNU, which as far as Beijing goes, is pretty centrally located between the 2nd and 3rd Ring Roads.

Picture courtesy of ChinaDaily.com.cn

Now of course, I know that in terms of subway public transportation, I've been a bit spoiled after living in New York City and Paris, both of which have very developed subway systems that have grown and adapted to it's residents needs over many decades. But that doesn't mean Beijing can sit back and wait for time to help solve it's traffic problems.

On my way to the 798 Space: a mini-adventure

On Tuesday, I set out to check out Beijing's 798 Space, an art district in the outskirts of Beijing. But before I tell you all about 798, I have to tell you about my journey over to 798. Because, as the saying goes, the journey is half the battle.

As I mentioned previously, 798 is located in the outskirts of Beijing, just north of the Fourth Ring Road. Since there isn't a direct way to get out to 798 solely using the subway, I looked on Google Maps for a good bus route(s) to take out there from BNU. Dutifully, Google Maps quickly spit out directions that seemed to coincide with the directions on the 798 website and I, of course, not knowing any better followed them.

But, as I'm sure you've guessed by now, those directions were not correct. According to the directions and map, the stop I was instructed to get off at would place me directly at the entrance to 798. Wrong. Very wrong. You know where I ended up instead? On a paved road that had  a dirt sidewalk on one side and a walled field around it on the other; in other words..it almost looked like the countryside. Definitely not where I wanted to be*.

After a few minutes of deliberation with myself and tentative walking around to make sure I really was in the wrong area, I decided to go ask the receptionist at a business hotel that luckily for me was located at the bust stop I had gotten off at. I have no idea what a business hotel (let alone a nice business hotel) was doing there all the way outside of the city, but nevertheless the receptionist was very kind when I asked her for directions (in Mandarin!).

As it turns out, I had completely overshot the 798 Space. In fact, I was so far that I couldn't even walk to it. I had to take a different bus back the way I came for roughly 10-15 minutes. (Needless to say, there isn't a dirt sidewalk over by 798; it's paved.)

All I have to say is, thanks, Google Maps; you were always so reliable before, but this time, you led me way astray. I don't appreciate that.

Regardless, I did eventually get to 798 after that little detour and it was definitely worth it. Using the abandon East German electronic factories from the 1950's, Bejing's contemporary art community has re-claimed the factories and turned them into various art galleries, cafes and stores. Since the factory workshops are sufficiently large, they are perfect for displaying art and large scale multimedia installations.

In some ways, 798 greatly reminded me of Brooklyn and Oakland/Emeryville, where many old warehouses have been converted into artist work-live lofts, among other uses. The space is also seemed very contained and separate from the bustling city that surrounded it; much like how Brooklyn always seems calmer than Manhattan.

Even the most of the other visitors of 798 seemed like they belonged in Brooklyn or Oakland. They all were young, like me, hip and interested in contemporary art and culture. It's the type of place I know a lot of my friends from home & New York would love.

Overall, it was a great outing for that day and I'll definitely be returning to 798 again (but not that dirt sidewalk place). And I have to say, I'm a proud of myself for figuring out how to go to my original destination, despite having completely misleading directions.

Here are some photos from 798. I should've taken one of the bus stop I got off when I was lost, but I didn't think of it at the time. Sorry!

I'm not convinced the Italian(?) here actually means what it says in English & Chinese, but I like the sentiment. 

 I'm not exactly sure why the Chinese military acts as security here. Maybe 798 lies right outside of Beijing Security's jurisdiction. Either way, this guy doesn't seem to be doing much. 

For more info about the 798 Space: http://www.798space.com/index_en.asp

*Note: For those of you concerned with my safety, rest assured that this detour occurred around noon on a sunny day and despite the country-esque surroundings, there were other people and cars around. I was in no danger whatsoever.